Cambodia: Part 1

So the journey has begun! It’s been a fascinating start to this journey of no plans or expectations.

Feb 28^th – The excitement and nerves were really building up before D-Day. That’s probably the only thing I am “expecting” during this trip; those 2 emotions constantly intermingling as I make my way, taking turns trying to outdo each other.  I wouldn’t have it any other way. Had a great evening out with the fam; dinner, drinks, coffee – wonderful time. Then it was back home, repacking i.e. throwing stuff out of the backpack.

Just pack the essentials.

I don’t think you will ever know what all the “essentials” are when you are leaving on a 6 month trip with just a backpack. Those “essentials” change depending on where you are. But you try and make your best guess and then hope that you’re not too far off!

Mar 1^st – A very early start to the journey. The 0645 flight necessitated a 0400 departure from home. A short sleep was all that could be squeezed in after the late night and the later than planned repacking.

It’s ok lah, sleep on the plane. Crap, 2 hour flight only ah. Ok never mind, powernap at some point. Then get to the hostel and sleep first.

Flight check-in. Easy enough, no issues. Luggage weighed – 14kg…

Eh, so light ah?? Wasted money buying 20kg luggage lah.

Maybe I did the “bare essentials”. Anyway it is what it is. In the spirit of the journey, I’ll figure it out as I go along.

Board flight. Power nap…not quite. Woken up by the flight attendant. Apparently I booked a ‘random meal’. Pasta. Really guys, at 0730. Thanks. Opened it, took 2 bites, covered it back again and set it aside to continue my attempt at a nap.

Pasta verdict: Bad shape.

Touch down Siem Reap. Quaint little airport. Long immigration wait. Very long. Finally through! Bags are ready. Time to head to the hostel and get some shut eye first!

Arrive at hostel at 0800. Check-in time 1400.

Sorry sir, full so cannot do early check-in.

Bye sleep. I guess I will just have to hit the streets and start exploring…

–FAST FORWARD TO MAR 4th–

We’ve got 11 hours to kill after checking out of the hostel. Taking the overnight bus to Phnom Penh which leaves at 2330. Had lunch with a couple of friends we met here; it’s always nice to meet up with people you’ve connected with when traveling. Nice cheap lunch with great company and conversation. Then wandered around for another 30 minutes in the heat before deciding to ‘tuktuk’ it back to the hostel to cool off in the lobby. A 2km walk feels a lot longer in this heat and humidity; another 34 deg C day, 60% humidity. Now sitting in Footprints café trying to write again…have I mentioned that writing is hard??

Siem Reap – what to make of this place. The first word that comes to mind is “touristy”. Fancy hotels, not-so-fancy backpacker hostels, fancy restaurants and not-so-fancy cafes. Tuk tuks and bikes and tuk tuks. Always tuk tuks. I feel the sense of spirituality that must have enveloped this place previously…but it is very faint. Almost like a fading light. Tourism has taken over this place. The irony of the fact that I too am one of them isn’t lost on me.

I spent half a day at the Angkors. Probably too short a time if I have to be honest. You do get a sense of history and there is a magical aura to the place. But it is faint, fading…like the red that was once the colour on its walls and now just shows itself in patches or often times just in the narration of the many tour guides speaking the many languages of the many tourists there. I feel that its magic is lost in the crowd of tourists that swarm this area on an almost daily basis. As much as it is a blessing to have an opportunity to share this place, I wonder if a place as historical and magical such as this should be “controlled” to a certain degree. How do you preserve the essence of a place whilst wanting to share its wonders with the rest of the world?

And what of the people. One thing you will always hear from people who have visited Cambodia is that its people are warm, friendly, polite, kind. I completely agree; I’ve met many Cambodians who are exactly like this. However, I think in general if you visit any place in luxury or semi-luxury, more often than not the people you encounter are going to be warm and friendly and polite. I am not traveling in luxury of any form. In my time here I’ve noticed that this warmth and politeness is not always apparent when you negotiate a non-rip off rate with a tuk tuk driver or decline the offer of the lady at a stall in the Old Market to purchase an Angkor Wat fridge magnet for US$3. I will be quick to point out here that this isn’t unique to Cambodians;  I believe this is something you will observe in most countries. What is interesting though is a people who are so renowned for their warmth are also susceptible to change when capitalism and commercialization starts to proliferate. I wonder if…

…oops, it’s time to head out!

I’m left with this lingering thought; are capitalism and commercialization slowly extinguishing the spiritual warmth and light that this place and its people once glowed with?